# Sliding drawer type RUB



## Autumn2005

Ok, so I'm looking to get my first sliding drawer type box to convert to a RUB. I want to know some of the things you do and don't look for in one of those. Like, what things are a must have when you go buying one of thes, and what are cautions to watch out for? Please post pics if you can! Also, I'd love any advice on what you do for ventilation, water, etc. Thanks so much!


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## NikiP

You are talking about this style right?










Or are you talking about this?


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## Autumn2005

Sorry I wasn't more clear, I meant the second one! Thanks!


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## ThatCertainGlow

The second one has been reported to be very difficult to get good ventilation going for the mice inside. Plus mice can chew out a back corner, without you seeing it right away. Leading to escape, or worse when you move the drawer. Those drawer bins are not usually of very sturdy plastic. If you had one with deep enough drawers, in a dry climate, and very chill non-chewers, perhaps screening in both upper sides of each drawer would work?

I'd be really excited to see how to build the first one with actual RUB's so you don't have to keep latching the lids on and off. Looking at the RUB bins, it seems like you'd have to cut through some side supports to fit them on sliders. Not sure if using under support slates, and making the fit tight to a frame around the upper screen, would work.


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## NikiP

That's why I was clarifying. I've considered the second one for projects before, but as stated, the plastic is usually sub par. Some have so much space between the two bins & the bottom of the above one usually isn't solid. Always worried that critters would get stuck or pinch body parts in there.

If you want vertical storage, go for the first one.

ThatCertainGlow, there's not normally sliders used in the design of mouse racks. Usually the two wood pieces are fitted together well enough that the edges of the tubs (usually cat litter pans or concrete mixing tubs) catch & are held between them. Very simple utilitarian 

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?38830-Building-amp-Plumbing-a-Rodent-Rack

http://www.arbreptiles.com/cages/rat_rack/ratrack.shtml


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## ThatCertainGlow

Right, but I don't care for the dark tubs and such, that are used in racks. First off, you can't see a thing, until you open it, and hope no-one had a paw or nose in the wrong place. I find that scary. I have seen them done with such wide space that you can see all top edges, at least of the lower ones, so that would solve that. (Except I'm 5' 2", and would be on a ladder to see the top one.) Second, they are only good for groups of 3-4 mice, and I'd want something like this for single bucks, or a nursing doe. I'm guessing the kind of thing that makes those drawer systems look so appealing, at first glance?

Now... the RUB company makes a drawer system thing, using their 12L bins, I didn't know about when I first answered. But it's very pricey? You'd still have to screen, and cut the heck out of it to get enough air, because you can only screen the low walls. Looks like it might work? So long as your mice are not inclined to stick noses, or other bits out of the cage, where you could pinch them, unaware. Climate would probably need to be controlled, or dry to keep moist air from building in those. I'd think you'd also have to choose your bedding wisely, or end up with most of it all over the floor from being pushed out of the screening. (I'm not sure what wouldn't end up out the screen.)
http://www.reallyusefulproducts.co.uk/u ... 9lDraw.php

Unless you are really wanting a simple open/close type way of accessing your mice, many people just use regular storage bins; with cut outs of screening, for air. Some mice chew out of those along the raised inside areas, some don't. Those kind of bins, on open wire shelves, might be something you would be interested in? Otherwise... those rack links are useful, if you have some tools.

Ahha! The second link, the builder talks about a different version, just the under support idea I was thinking of. http://www.arbreptiles.com/cages/rat_ra ... ack2.shtml
Now to try to translate that to my bin's dimensions. Hmm.

Only RUB's seem to have see-through flat, solid floors/sides (at least bins that can be purchased state-side). Plus, are made from really sturdy, food-grade plastic. Problem is, they have all this support stuff on the sides that would prevent a 'catch', unless you somehow cut it out. Don't know how well you can see it, but the outer support ribs come right down from the bin edges. On all four sides of the bins. (Ignore the lid, that wouldn't be involved.) It's why I was thinking about some sort of under support slates, so it wasn't necessary to cut into the ribs on the bins.

(These are RUB bins before any modification.)


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## pro-petz

NikiP first image of a rack type system can be modified to hold basically any type of plastic container, the ones in the picture below are 32L underbed storage boxes but will work just as well with smaller rub boxes providing the measurements are calculated to alow for the tub to slide freely with minimal gap.









I also use cat litter trays for nursing mums as find having the dark sides relieves a certain amount of stress although not proven I do get better results using them.


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## andypandy29us

love that set up Pro  Would love to have that much space and that many mice


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## Autumn2005

See, that's why I post here, I didn't realize there were problems with the plastic store shelving. Yeah, I'm looking to expand my mousery into something that's more space efficient. Right now I have about 20 lab cages with mismatched lids and about a dozen small RUBs for small family groups. The RUBs can stack, but to access a bottom one you have to remove all the top ones, and space is limited. The lab cages are plenty spacy, but I have to be careful who I put in there because the spacing on the wire lids is rat-sized, which means babies and small, clever adults cad get out. I do have some home-made lids that are escape proof, but it's hard for me to make them, and I only have a limited number, plus the lab cages don't stack at all, which really eats up space in an already limited area.

So I'm looking for something better to get more space into my area. I do like the idea of the wooden shelves that stack, especially ones that have little food hoppers and automatic waters.... But I'm not at all handy with tools and such. It's hard for me even to use the heavy-duty wood stapler to make my wood lids for the lab cages. And simply buying them is much too expensive for me.

I was hoping to have an easy method to be able to get more space. I'm a mean hand with a soldering iron even if I suck with bigger tools, which is why having to cut out the doors and replace them with wire doesn't bother me.


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## pro-petz

Being handy with soldering iron means you may modify your existing boxes without having to remove the lids for feeding. Cut out a section on the front facing panel so you have an almost all wire front leaving enough plastic on the bottom to avoid substrate being kicked out.

depending on the type of food if lab blocks makes it easier make your own food hoppers out of mesh and attach to the front so can be filled from the outside and water bottle on opposite side. food hopper should slope so that the food will drop to the rear of the hopper against the wire so the mice have access to it. cutting additional wires so the gap is larger for the mice to be able to feed easily.

The same type of hopper could also be made from plastic and attached using zip ties, which would be more suitable for the grain type feeds.

Hope this gives you a few more ideas to a space saving solution and less handling of tubs.


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## Autumn2005

Those are great ideas, thanks! However, to get to the mice I'd still have to remove all the cages on top versus just sliding the bottom open. Right now, the way I cut my rectangle RUBs is that I remove almost the entire sides on the long sides, replace it with mesh, and then burn a hole in one of the short sides for water. I never thought about doing an external hopper though, I'm going to try that out!


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## Autumn2005

Got a question for you guys, if I make my own rack system, the wooden kind like pro-petz, would you like to see step by step instructions as I do it? Or do you think there's already enough instructions online, no need for more?


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## pro-petz

personally think there are a;ready many step by step guides into making the wooden rack system, however some do not take into account the bottle or drinking nozzle which would prevent the tub from being removed without the need to remove it each time.

In my design I set the runners for the tub to equal three quarters the length of the tub thus allowing the nozzle to be placed in such a position so the tub will drop down slightly for its removal for cleaning.

Use of tubs whether clear or solid does not make a difference if the gap between is sufficient as you can view the contents of the tubs through the mesh top, at least 4 inches for automatic watering system 6 inches if using bottles.

One tip I can pass onto anyone wishing to make such rack system is measure and remeasure both the tubs and the wood.

The gap between mesh and top of tub is also a tricky one to get right but after making the top and affixing the mesh screw the first batten to support the runners first then use a spacer of some kind, I used a metal ruler to give a slight gap so the tub would run smoothly before placing the tub on top of this and the runner on its lip then marking the batten to affix the runner, once one batten has bee done the others are just the same so removal of first and aligned with others speeds up the construction. An electrical screwdriver/speed controlled drill with screwdriver attachment is advised.


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