# Setups and layout



## ChrisW (Mar 8, 2013)

I am just starting up and in the planning process of my 'mouse house'. I am planning on keeping Black and Chocolate Tans to breed and show. I will be utilising my existing shed 20' x 12', This is a metal shed and I have lined it with plywood, I am going to make my own boxes from 12mm plywood these will be 16'' x 8'' x 8'' for breeding, and some 16'' x 24'' x 8'' for growing on, I am thinking of starting with 2 trios of each colour to start my breeding plans. Each box will have ventilation holes cut into them covered with 1/4'' mesh. I am planning on having a four inch horizontal gap between the boxes to allow for decent airflow.

What are your views on this and could you advise on anything that I may have overlooked.

Thanks

Chris W


----------



## pro-petz (Nov 14, 2012)

I personally do not favour the wooden boxes due to them being able to retain moisture and found them also to be a higher risk for mites.

Whilst a full wooden construction would be cheaper initially I decided on my new mousery http://www.fancymicebreeders.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=12300 to go with plastic tubs in a rack system with automatic watering system. I have done the same in my quarantine room initially to test things out and found the day to day tasks and cleaning to be very time consuming on the all wooden structure but is greatly reduced with the rack and automatic watering system.

Everything you have said sounds good and would be very suitable for the breeding of mice. Only thing I can think of that may or may not be a concern is the possibility of wild mice entering the shed, this would depend how it is attached at floor level and if any gaps or weak spots that they may gain entry.


----------



## ChrisW (Mar 8, 2013)

The shed is an all metal type, I found that it formed a lot of condensation on the inside during the cold winter months, this was the reason I lined it with plywood, the shed itself is screwed to the floor which is 1 inch plywood raised 9 inches from the concrete base on concrete block pillars. Vermin should not be a problem as I have stored all my fish food and related products in the shed for the last 5 years with no signs of trouble.

Do you think that 2 trios of each variety would be sufficient for a foundation stock?

In the past I have bred pet mice and fed them on rat pellets, what is the best diet you can recommend for breeding and raising exhibition mice, I am open to suggestions.

Thanks

Chris W


----------



## pro-petz (Nov 14, 2012)

9 inches above the concrete base is good as it would allow any feral cats to go under. Depending on how many enclosures and quantity of mice you intend to keep you may also need to install additional ventilation to help reduce condensation and air flow keeping the smell down, depending on how the British weather performs over the period of time you keep the mice and the locality of the shed. On my new purpose mousery design I have had to take into account that my garden is south facing and as such gets very hot in a good summer but also very cold in the winter months.

The number required for foundation stack also varies between breeders, I personally would go for 3 trios of each variety for foundation stock preferably unrelated so is then possible to produce your own strain and have outcrosses when required.

Unfortunately there is no perfect mouse diet as each variety tends to do better on different mixes and it is solely comes down to personal preference. Lab blocks are a good staple diet but one needs to have the 2 types the standard and breeder the latter being higher protein content. Or you could mix your own of which many examples have already been posted within the forum adding cat or dog kibble to the diet as and when required for the added protein.


----------



## Frizzle (Oct 6, 2011)

I second you not using wooden boxes for the housing of your rodents. Course, I'm a sucker for DIY sterilite (plastic) bins.


----------



## Oakelm (Oct 17, 2009)

Yay another fancier in my neck of the woods, im only an m42 hop away.
Another vote for plastic over wood, i personally use lucky reptile rodent cages, which are basically lab cages. Expensive initial outlay but worth it and super easy to clean/disinfect.

I found a small tube heater designed for greenhouses kept the damp off in winter, gave zero added warmth really apart from just keeping the frost off. With summer around the corner this shouldnt be an issue yet but bare in it in mind as winter comes back as mice do well with cold but not damp or draughty.

Food wise read the feeding section, mixing your own is generally the best way to go. A good base of oats then mixed to your preference with stuff. My current mix is oats, barley, wild bird seed mix, flaked peas, dried mealworms and a bit of dog food. I throw in all sorts of leftover cereal/bread/tiny bit of veg basically anything going spare. Mine changes slightly depending on what bags of grain are a good price at the feed suppliers but you will get to know what your own mice do well on.

As for starting trios personally i think two trios of each is enough as you have stated two compatible varieties so if you desperately needed to cross lines and couldnt get hold of stock then you can cross the chocs and the blacks. I would personally look to purchase another trio or two down the line once your established as by then you will know what your mice lack and what you need from these fresh mice.


----------



## TwitchingWhiskers (Feb 2, 2013)

I'm with Frizzle; converted sterilite bins work great! I recall RUB's being popular in the UK for mouse keeping, they are pretty expensive and hard to find where I live, though.


----------

